If you’re fishing from the shore anywhere, one of the most critical decisions you'll need to make about your setup is choosing the best line for surf fishing, and knowing what type and pound test to use. Through my tournament fishing and guiding, I've learnt what a big difference this can make to your day.
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But, with a massive variety of options available - such as monofilament (mono), fluorocarbon, braided (braid), and wire lines or leaders - it can be pretty overwhelming trying to pick the best line for your style of beach casting and target species.
In this article, written by a professional guide, we'll break down the pros and cons of each type of line for every form of fishing from the shore, and provide insights on when and how to use them, ensuring you have the upper hand on your next surf fishing adventures. Let's start with a look at the different types of line, plus tips and best uses.
Mono (Monofilament) Fishing Line For Surf Fishing
Fluorocarbon (Fluoro) Fishing Line for Surf Fishing
Braided (Braid) Fishing Line for Surf Fishing
Wire Leaders for Shark & Surf Fishing
Monofilament fishing line, often referred to simply as "mono," is a versatile type of fishing line that is widely used by surf anglers for various surf fishing applications. The reels below are spooled with clear mono line.
This type of line is called "monofilament" because it's made from a single strand of synthetic material, typically nylon or a similar polymer.
It's the most common form of main line and leader (the length of line between the main line and hook or sinker) and is often clear in color, like the mono in the photo below, but bright and solid colors are available.
Like most main lines, mono is usually purchased on a 150m to m spools (sometimes also measured in weight of line being purchased, like a 1/4lb or 1lb spool), in 2lb to 1,000lb breaking strains.
This is then wound onto the reel at the tackle shop (recommended for beginners), or at home if you know how to spool a reel correctly, to form the main line of your setup.
Shock Absorption (Stretch): Monofilament lines have excellent shock absorption properties with 10-30% stretch depending on the brand, making them ideal for main lines and leaders for handling hard-hitting fish that might strike, shake their head a lot, or run suddenly. This makes mono particularly useful for beginners who aren't experienced in handling larger fish
Cost-Effective: Mono lines are generally more budget-friendly to buy per spool than other options, making them a great choice for beginners who may need to re-spool a few times a season
Knot-Friendly: They are forgiving when it comes to knot tying, making them suitable for anglers still mastering their knot skills. Generally, mono has great knot strength
Buoyancy Some mono lines float or sink slower than fluorocarbon, which can be beneficial when using topwater lures or baits for species like striped bass, trout and game species
Abrasion resistance: Mono has outstanding resistance to rubbing on rough shark skin and hard structure like reef, pier pilings or rocks
Visibility: Monofilament line can be highly visible underwater in brighter and solid shades, potentially spooking wary fish in clear water conditions even in clear versions compared to fluorocarbon lines
Stretch: They have more stretch compared to other lines, which can result in reduced sensitivity when detecting subtle bites from smaller fish and at long distances
Thickness: Mono, per pound of breaking strain, is far thicker than braid main line, meaning you'll fit less on the spool and you'll have to use a bigger sinker
Memory: Mono line often has what's called "memory", which means the line retains the shape of the spool it was stored on to some degree when laid out loose. Some brands have less memory than others; often the better-regarded mono main line brands (e.g. Izorline XXX Super Co-polymer) have little memory, making them much easier to handle and cast.
Cheaper mono lines are often much wirier and retain lots of the spool shape when left to hang loose. Aim for a mono with as little memory as possible for most applications - and a stiffer, wirier mono when more abrasion resistance is required.
Needs changing: Unlike most braid main lines, most monofilament lines will degrade over time, especially if exposed to saltwater and used regularly, and will need changing every few months
Prone to twisting: Mono can be prone to developing twists and kinks that makes it hard to handle, especially if spooled incorrectly or used for lure fishing with a spinning bait. Always use a good quality swivel in your rig if using long sections of mono for surf fishing and get your reel professionally spooled at a tackle shop
Mono lines are excellent for beginners who want an easy-to-use, versatile main and leader line for light to medium-weight spinning setups for general surf fishing with bait or lures in most surf fishing spots
Mono is also ideal for situations where you need shock more stretch and resistance in the setup - like when targeting larger, hard-hitting species such as sharks, tuna, striped bass or redfish
Great for rubbing and abrasion leaders for shark fishing - mono will withstand rough shark skin far better than braid line. We use the ultra-reliable 80lb mono below for abrasion and casting leaders
Useful for casting leaders when you need a heavy mono length of line between braid main line and your sinker to withstand for the force of the cast. You need ten pounds of breaking strain for every ounce you're casting; so a 2oz sinker needs 20lb line, and so on...
Good for top water lure fishing or when you need buoyancy and stretch for your crankbait, jigs, swimbaits or lures
Choose a monofilament main line or leader with a test strength appropriate for your target species, and matched to the rating on your rod and reel combo. These in-depth surf fishing setup guides have lots of tips on this subject to help you match your mono line to your setup
Use heavy monofilament leaders and braid main lines for casting distance and shock absorption when dealing with big fish in the surf, like sharks and game species
Change your main and leader line regularly to prevent abrasion and maintain its strength and sensitivity, trash anything that's damaged, discoloured or not smooth to the touch
For an awesome all-round mono main line and leader, we use and highly recommend Izorline XXX Super Co-Cpolymer in our guiding service to land lots of the fish pictured on our social media and article pages.
Fluorocarbon fishing line is a clear type of fishing line for leaders and main line that has gained popularity among surf anglers in recent years due to its unique set of properties. It's an important part of any surf angler's leader collection.
Fluorocarbon line (fluoro) is made from a synthetic material, often polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) or a similar polymer, extruded into a single thin strand of line that has some refractive index as water, making it hard for fish to see. This is a great attribute.
To us humans, it usually looks just like clear mono, like the line in the photo below (actually this is 6lb fluorocarbon) but it has the edge over other leader materials for fishing in lots of surf fishing situations.
Invisibility: Fluorocarbon lines, due to their refractive index, are nearly invisible underwater, making them an excellent choice for clear water and finicky fish in the shallow surf
Low Stretch: They have less stretch compared to mono, offering increased sensitivity for detecting subtle bites and fast hits
UV Resistance: A good quality fluorocarbon line is more UV resistant than a mono line, meaning it won't degrade as fast and will perform consistently for longer. This is a consideration in warm, sunny climates such as a beach
Abrasion Resistance: Fluorocarbon lines are highly resistant to abrasion, like mono, making them suitable for fishing around rocks and rough underwater structures
Fluorocarbon's abrasion resistance has been tested by Sunline, a classic American fishing line brand, and the results are interesting. See the table below for a summary of mono vs fluorocarbon line when exposed to the same amount of abrasion - one is clearly less damaged than the other. Fluorocarbon wins.
This resistance to abrasion is one of the reasons why we like fluorocarbon leaders for lots of surf fishing applications, especially for light line fishing.
Stiffness: Fluorocarbon lines are stiffer than mono, which can affect casting distance and lure action if used as a main line or leader
Cost: They tend to be more expensive than monofilament lines
Knot strength: Fluorocarbon lines sometimes have lower knot strength than equivalent mono lines
Use light fluorocarbon leaders and main lines when fishing in clear water or when targeting surf and inshore species with keen eyesight, or wary behavior
Opt for fluorocarbon when finesse fishing with light line or working with smaller lures, as it offers increased sensitivity due to the low stretch. Use fluorocarbon leaders when you need the invisibility factor at the bait or lure level
Fluoro is a great choice for lots of rigs designed for use with fresh bait in the surf, like the one below
Choose a strength of fluorocarbon leader or mainline depending on the line rating of your rod and reel (it's written on the side of the rod near the handle, and it'll be a line rating like 10-20lb)
Consider fluorocarbon mainlines for applications requiring abrasion resistance, such as fishing around rocky areas with lures or dropshot rigs for fluke and halibut
Fluorocarbon line is a go-to leader material for most surf species that don't have teeth, and is often combined with a braid main line to benefit from braid's the lack of stretch and low diameter, with a few feet of fluorocarbon leader (sometimes also called a "top shot") to add some stretch and stealth to the final part of the setup
Braided fishing line, often referred to simply as "braid," is a type of fishing line known for its exceptional strength and great diameter-to-strength ratio.
Braid main line is made by braiding together multiple synthetic fibers (often in 4, 8 or 12-strand configurations), such as Spectra, Dyneema, or other high-strength materials, and is usually solid in color, like the braid main line in the image below.
Braided fishing lines have become increasingly popular among surf anglers for various fishing applications due to their unique properties, with many shore-based anglers now using braid as their go-to main line.
The spinning reel below is spooled with 8-strand braid main line - a common choice for all-round surf fishing.
Strength: Braid offers superior strength-to-diameter ratios, allowing you to use thinner lines with higher test strengths, and cast further due to the lower diameter line
Low Stretch: Braided lines have almost zero stretch, providing excellent sensitivity for lure fishing, bite detection and long casting
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Longevity: Braid is highly durable and resistant to UV rays and water absorption, meaning it’ll last for several years if looked after and checked regularly for damage
Visibility: Braid is highly visible in clear water, which can spook fish. Braid is not a suitable leader material for use between the hook and sinker or swivel part of any surf fishing rig
Knot Sensitivity: Some braided lines can be challenging to knot properly, requiring specific knots for best results
Cost: Braid main line can be expensive to buy initially, but because it often lasts several seasons - far longer than mono or fluorocarbon - it's often more economical in the long term
Tangles: If not spooled correctly, and managed properly in the casting process, braid does tend to tangle more frequently than mono main lines. For this reason, they're sometimes not the best choice of main line for beginners (mono is, though)
Choose braid for its incredible strength-to-diameter as a main line when targeting any sort of powerful fish - from surf perch, corbina, bonito and trout, to sharks or tarpon
Use it in situations where you need maximum sensitivity, such as finesse fishing for small or subtle-biting species on lures on light tackle
When you need to cast a long way out, braid main line is the best choice compared to mono. For example, when you want to cast a fresh bait a long way out in the surf and fish it bait-and-wait style, or blast a lure into the surf for a striper, 15-30lb braid is the best main line
Always combine braid with a fluorocarbon or mono leader to address visibility concerns in clear water, and add a degree of stretch
Use a longer leader for finesse fishing to add stealth and sensitivity to your setup for line-shy species
Be cautious when setting the hook with braid, as it lacks the shock-absorbing properties of mono. A quick flick of the wrist is often all that's needed
If casting any sort of big sinker or lure with braid main line, to absorb the extra pressure and weight, use a mono casting leader appropriate to the size of weight you're casting (remember the rule: ten pounds of breaking strain for every ounce you're casting)
Using wire leaders made from woven strands of stainless for surf fishing is essential when targeting toothy predatory species like bluefish, barracuda, and sharks. Wire leaders provide bite protection and help prevent your line from being severed.
The bait below is mounted on a rig made from wire (the thick black line) for shark fishing from the beach. This is a typical surf shark setup with the wire leader (usually in 130-800lb breaking strain depending on the size of fish) able to withstand far more abrasion than any mono or fluorocarbon line.
Durability: They can withstand harsh saltwater conditions and the sharp teeth of multiple aggressive fish
Rigidity: Wire leaders are rigid and stiff, which can make them unappealing to some species and challenging to handle, especially for beginners. They do not have the flexibility of other leader materials like monofilament or fluorocarbon. Some species will not easily eat a bait on a wire leader
Lack of Stretch: Wire leaders have minimal stretch, which can be a disadvantage when fighting fish, especially if they make sudden runs or powerful strikes. The lack of stretch can put extra stress on your tackle and may lead to hook pulls or snapped lines, which is why a heavy and stretchy mono top shot is often used with a wire leader
Knot Sensitivity: Tying knots, haywire twists and crimping wire leaders can be more challenging compared to tying other leader materials. Specialized knots, like the haywire twist, or crimps, are often required for secure connections. We recommend buying professionally-tied shark and surf fishing rigs as the best way to access setups that will really work for you straight out of the packet
Limited Applications: Wire leaders are primarily used when targeting specific toothy predator species in the surf. They may not be suitable for all surf fishing scenarios or species
Wire leaders between the hook or lure and main line are an invaluable tool for surf anglers who are targeting toothy predator species like bluefish, barracuda, and any shark species. They provide essential bite protection and durability in situations where monofilament or fluorocarbon leaders might fail.
The leopard shark pictured below was caught on a wire leader from the beach on spinning tackle in a situation where a mono leader would've likely failed.
The simple lesson is this: if it has teeth, or you're fishing for any sort of shark or ray, use a wire leader between the hook and sinker part of the rig.
To sum up, the choice of fishing line can significantly impact your success on the water.
Consider the type of fishing you plan to do, the species you're targeting, and the water conditions when selecting your surf fishing line.
While monofilament, fluorocarbon, braided, and wire lines each have their advantages and disadvantages, knowing when and how to use them will help you become a more successful surf angler.
So, pick the right line and leader, hit the beach, and get ready to reel in those trophy catches!
If you'd like to learn more about surf fishing lines and leaders, we run in-depth tuition and coaching sessions in Southern California - we'd love to help you so get in touch via
Over the years, bass fishing line has slowly progressed from the old school monofilament to numerous new age options. There are multiple kinds of fishing lines with tons of manufactures that all make their own versions. While it is always great to have options, this can make choosing the right fishing line difficult. We’ll explain when to use each type of fishing line based on the line strength, visibility and stretch.
There are three basic types of fishing line as it relates to bass fishing. They include monofilament, fluorocarbon and braided fishing line. Each have qualities and properties that make them useful for different situations. Additionally, each also has potential drawbacks that can impact their effectiveness in certain situations.
Fishing line has progressed exponentially over the last few decades. Some of the oldest lines in fishing are actually braid, however it wasn’t made with the modern materials we are used to seeing nowadays. Instead it was woven with other materials such as silk glands, creating a stiff and slightly transparent line.
Fast forward many years later and monofilament was created. This quickly became the norm thanks to its revolutionary durability and transparency. This line went on to be a bass fishing staple for decades. Since then, both fluorocarbon and modern versions of braided fishing line have taken over the bass fishing market. While fluorocarbon is likely the most commonly used line, all three still have their own time and place based on your chosen technique.
Beyond that understanding line diameter, pound test, stretch and abrasion resistance will help you understand which line to choose and why.
Fluorocarbon, braid and monofilament all have their own positive and negative attributes that make them great for certain styles of bass fishing. The factors that affect these lines performance are stretch, transparency and durability. It is important to choose a line that fits the correct criteria for your chosen technique. This means that if you are fishing an area with muddy water and heavy cover, you need a line with little stretch and lots of strength. This dirtier water clarity allows you to sacrifice your lines visibility and increase your lines overall durability, allowing for a much thicker gauged line.
However, in a clear water scenario you’d want a more transparent line with a thinner diameter. The increased water clarity calls for a thinner line in order to give your bait more action and a lifelike presentation. Cover and water clarity are often your two biggest factors when deciding what kind of line to throw. Heavy cover means you need something durable, while clear water calls for a transparent, thinner style line. Fluorocarbon, monofilament and braided line are able to tackle any fishing scenario you might encounter thanks to their own unique characteristics.
Monofilament is the original transparent fishing line, and is still used for a variety of fishing techniques. Monofilament is clear much like fluorocarbon, however it has a slightly thicker diameter. Monofilament is a single fiber of nylon that is spun individually or with other polymers (co-polymer line) then extruded to form a nylon line that is then wound onto a spool for use on fishing reels. It’s also much stretchier than other types of line fishing line. This can be great for treble hook baits or other techniques with light wire hooks. Monofilament also floats giving baits a unique presentation. This line is much cheaper than both braided and fluorocarbon line, making it the most economical option.
A few of my favorite times to use monofilament is for a leader and deep cranking. I typically tie a monofilament leader when throwing a topwater lure or a Carolina rig. A monofilament leader keeps your line from sinking into the water, making it much easier to work a topwater lure properly. It also keeps your hooks from getting fowled in the braid. Monofilament is also great for a Carolina rig because it allows your bait to float up off the bottom. This gives your bait a weightless presentation which I feel gets more bites compared to a fluorocarbon leader.
Deep cranking is another application where monofilament shines. The added stretch keeps you from ripping the treble hook out of the fishes mouth when winching them to the boat. The thicker gauge line helps to keep you from casting your bait off when throwing magnum sized crank baits, which is a common issue when using fluorocarbon line. This line’s increased abrasion resistance is also great for cranking around timber or other types of cover that can fray your line. Monofilament lines can be extruded to different tensile strengths, also known as pound tests, which essentially determine at what amount of pressure the line will break.I typically use anywhere from 10 to 12-pound monofilament when throwing deep diving crank baits.
They can mix in various polymers to give the line color and refractive properties like fluorescent for being seen under a black light for night fishing.
The 3 critical aspects of monofilament fishing line include pound test, diameter and stretch. The pound test coincides with diameter.
Since the invention of fluorocarbon in , it has remained an extremely popular style of fishing line. In today’s time it is arguably the most popular style of line used for the vast majority of bass fishing techniques under the surface. This is due to the lines overall performance in both clear and dirty water scenarios. Fluorocarbon is extremely transparent while still remaining durable in heavy cover situations. This is a plastic polymer line and is designed to be used in both heavy cover and finesse situations.
This line can be used in numerous techniques, however my favorites are baits with a singular hook such as a jig or spinnerbait. I like fluorocarbon for this style of bait because it gives me enough strength to get a good hook set, while still being clear enough to deliver a lifelike presentation. Fluorocarbon has very little stretch, making it a great option for getting good hook penetration on ticker gauged hooks. I typically using anything from 15 to 20-pound test when throwing a jig or spinnerbait on fluorocarbon line.
Another application fluorocarbon is great for is using it as a leader. When throwing lures such as a Shakey head or drop shot, I will always add a long fluorocarbon leader to the end of my line. This gives your bait a finesse presentation by decreasing the diameter and transparency of your line. A braid to fluorocarbon leader is my go to method for the majority of spinning rod techniques. Anything from an 8 to 12-pound leader is typically standard for this style of fishing.
Fluorocarbon, Polyvinylidene fluoride, is similar to mono but the main property that separates the two would be in light reflection and refraction. Fluorocarbon is less optically dense so it is much harder to see in water as a result. It also has better abrasion resistance than monofilament as it doesn’t absorb water like monofilament will over time. Additionally, fluorocarbon is a little more rigid so it doesn’t stretch like monofilament does.
So you end up with a line that is harder for the fish to see than mono, has better abrasion resistance for fighting fish out of heavy cover and it is more sensitive because it is less forgiving than monofilament. This gives anglers somewhat of an advantage on tempting bass to bite artificial lures.
However it does have a few drawbacks. For starters, because fluorocarbon is a bit more rigid than monofilament, it is a bit less manageable. It will coil more and not stay as limp as monofilament on retrieves. It becomes more noticeable on the larger diameter and pound test lines.
It is also worth noting that fluorocarbon lines sink whereas mono is more neutrally buoyant. This sinking property makes fluorocarbon less desirable for floating lures like topwaters because the sinking line will continually pull the lure’s nose down under the water.
But many anglers have migrated from monofilament to fluorocarbon because of the invisibility, sensitivity and abrasion resistance, albeit at an added expense.
Backing
Because fluorocarbon is more expensive than monofilament, anglers are always seeking to make their fluorocarbon last longer or use less for each reel. Many anglers, myself included, will use “backing” or simply cheaper line to fill up a spool except for the last 60-100 yards which will be the fluorocarbon. This practice allows you to use less fluorocarbon line, respool more often and make a filler spool of line last longer for the same amount of money.
Generally speaking, if you fill up a reel with line. You’re only going to use the last 60 yards or so of it. So it makes sense to use backing.
Last but certainly not least, braid is an extremely popular style of fishing line that puts giant bass in the boat all across the country. Braid is the strongest of the three lines, capable of handling any sized fish you throw at it. Braid is essentially, as its name implies, woven strands of material that form a small diameter, no stretch, extremely strong line. The original and most common braids floated. They were often made of materials like cotton or linen. Now braided lines are made of more scientifically crafted materials like Dacron, Spectra and Dyneema.
These more carefully engineered fibers yield strands of woven fibers that do not stretch, have incredible tensile strength and abrasion resistance and very small diameters relative to their pound test. It makes them a great line for fishing for bass around heavy cover where you really have to be able to fight a bass out of or through a lot of dense vegetation or wood. You can also use much higher test line when throwing braid, which allows you to pull fish out of thick mats or other types of cover. Most anglers like a heavier braid like 65-80 pound sizes for fishing heavy cover with hollow bodied or soft plastic frogs or punching through matted vegetation with big weights and soft plastic craws, creatures and beavers.
A few of the most popular techniques for braid are on spinning reels and when fishing heavy cover. I use 10 to 20-pound braid on all my spinning reels for a multitude of reasons. This line allows you to cast long distances with minimal tangles. This line is also much more sensitive which is important for finesse techniques. The lines thin diameter also allows for more line on the spool and increased casting distance. We recommend 10 to 20-pound sizes for spinning gear, drop shot and shaky head presentations. We like a 30-40 pound braid for swim jigs, topwaters and even swimbaits.
However using braid is not all roses either. While this line is stronger and more sensitive, it’s not transparent making it much easier to see. This is why anglers often tie fluorocarbon leaders to their braided line. Additionally, braid can dig into itself more when you wrench down on a hookset or horsing a fish in heavy cover. And it can be more susceptible to wind knots, or tangles that catch your guides, in smaller diameters.
But braided fishing lines have become staples for fishing around grass, fishing topwater lures, and fishing finesse gear on spinning tackle with fluorocarbon leaders. Braid resists line twists much better on spinning gear than either fluorocarbon or monofilament. Braid can be wound tighter on a spool to reduce “digging” and braid definitely gives a lure more casting distance in comparable line diameters.
Fluorocarbon, monofilament and braid all have their own unique characteristics that make them perform in their own way. While picking the right line may seem confusing at first, it becomes simple when you focus on water clarity and the amount of cover present. While fluorocarbon may be the most popular, all three of these lines have a place in my boat thanks to their differing amounts of strength, transparency and stretch.
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